Ecuador: Part 4: Quito- Old and New Town, Papallacta Thermal Springs

My first few days in Quito I spent walking around the New City and several of its parks. During my last few days I walked the historic section known as Old Town. In 1978 UNESCO declared Quito a world heritage site.  

I toured the Basilica del Voto Nacional. Here you could walk up a spiral metal staircase and then a series of thin metal ladders to get a grand view of the city. I couldn't veer to far over the edge without having my knees shake a little. Some brave folks did step outside of the clock tower to get an unobtrusive view of the city. 

I visited many other churches; San Augustin, La Merced, Santo Domingo, La Compania. Plaza Independencia was populated with street performers one day and a large band the next. Government buildings, a church and a hotel charging $500 per night surround the plaza. Many children were selling jello or shining shoes in this area.

After being warned "peligroso, peligroso" (dangerous) I  took a taxi to the top of El Panecillo to see the statue of the Virgin of Quito up close. This statue presides over Old Town and is located in a really rough neighborhood. Many people have been mugged or worse on their attempt at walking up. The views of the city are worth the small taxi fee.

A two hour bus ride from Quito brought us to Papallacta Springs. This place has seven pools of thermal springs and I tried them all. Early afternoon the sky was overcast but by mid afternoon the clouds parted, the sun shined and a beautiful view of the mountains appeared. I spent about four hours swimming and relaxing. I even managed to take a nap in one of the pools, must have felt a little too relaxed! 

Comparing the Galapagos Islands to the rest of the country wouldn't be fair. I loved all of Ecuador. Anyone interested in a trip to either the islands or the mainland, I've got plenty of stories and advice!  

Next up: Peru!

Ecuador: Part 3: Puerto Lopez, Quito, Otavalo

Within minutes of arriving at the coastal town of Puerto Lopez I found it hard to imagine that just days earlier I was climbing a snow covered mountain. Although, I did welcome 

the change of high temperatures and lots of sun. During our stay we went to Agua Blanca, an archeology site built by the Mantena. A small museum displayed some of the artifacts found; numerous tools, ceremonial seats, and human remains.  Surprisingly excavation has not been conducted for 20 years! 

Another beach town, the hippie village of Montanita was another venture. I could easily see why this is "the" place to be at night. An abundant amount of bars and restaurants lined the streets. A lively but also laid back atmosphere complete with many dreadheaded people and a "funny smell" to the air.  

During our brief stay in Quito a few of us decided to visit La Mitad del Mundo. We were quickly redirected to the Solar Museum where we were given a talk about the real center of the Earth. An archeology site, Catequilla rests atop a mountain and is perfectly in line with the correct equator, GPS coordinates confirm this. After a brief history of the culture we were told of a small disc found alongside a road that marks the correct location of the equator. Finding the disc proved to be a real adventure. Avoiding oncoming traffic was a test of reflexes and provided a great deal of entertainment. 

I'm sure the drivers thought we were all completely nuts- what an odd bunch of gringos- might have been one of their more polite thoughts.

After the real equator we went to visit the confirmed fake equator and all its tourist glory.  

One of our stops near Otavalo was Crater Lake in Cotacachi Park.  The view was spectacular, happy to have decided to hike around for a few hours than take a short boat ride around the lake. (I'm always up for a challenge!)

We also made a stop at a nearby leather town. The clothing, bags and other articles were all well made and beautiful but I didn't find anything I absolutely needed to have. (Sorry. I'm not turning into a leather clothed biker chick.)

The big draw to Otavalo is the market. I got a glimpse of what would be sold on a Friday but nothing could compare to the quantity of vendors on Saturday. Every street was filled with people selling art, jewelry, clothing, fabrics, fruits, veggies, grains, meats, etc. I only bought a t-shirt (at a very good bargain) and enjoyed walking around listening to others bargaining and to soak in the variety of colors. The market would be an artist's dream.

Ecuador: Part 2: Santa Anita, Riobamba, Guayaquil

Our next stop was a visit to the community of Santa Anita (population 1500). During our walk we saw many donkeys, sheep, cows and pigs on the dirt roads. A few kids came up to me asking to view my camera. Some asked for their picture to be taken and I had a few brief conversations with some of them. A family was tending their fields, women in skirts and a few with their kids tied to thier backs! Some people were brave enough to try cuy (guinea pig) for dinner. We stopped by a shack so two "pets" could be chosen for the night's meal. I thought they were too cute to eat and judging by the reviews of the crew I wasn't missing much- I don't think anyone enjoyed the taste. 

Early the next morning we gathered together for our trek to Chimborazo, the highest (6310m, 20702 feet) snow capped mountain in Ecuador. Shortly within beginning the trail several grave markers were placed to pay respects to those who lost their lives during the ascent. 

Our first hike was to 5000 meters (16404 feet), only a 200 meter difference from where we began but it was a strenuous climb. All of us were relieved when we arrived at the Edward Whymper refuge, I grabbed a hot chocolate and after a few minutes rest decided to continue a bit further/higher. My breathing was fine, I didn't feellightheaded/nauseous, etc- no sign of altitude sickness. Just my legs ached but since I thought this might be my only visit I decided to push myself a bit more.   

A bit of a time crunch dictated how far we could continue on. Our guide told Peter and I we had reached 5400m (17716 feet). Neither of us felt we could have possibly climbed another 400 meters in that short time but either way whether 5200m or 5400m, it is still the highest elevation I have been at. I think I'm ready for Everest! Ha Ha.

We spent two days in Riobamba. Early one morning we boarded a train (felt more like an old school bus on tracks). Apparently two tourists were killed from riding on top of the train (decapatation from electric wires). So we were told that rides atop the train weren't allowed anymore. However, shortly after our final stop at Alausi the train came to a halt. $1 bought you a cushion and admission to the top. 

A few minutes later we came to another stop- rockfall! Many of us hoped this wouldn't mean the end of the ride. Crew and fellow passengers jumped out and off the train to help move the large rocks and boulders. You would think an archeologist would go and help with the digging, but no. I enjoyed taking photos of the scenery and of my fellow travel buddies helping us get out of this jam. Plus, would I really want to put all the men to shame by my might?! The ride continued and what an experience it was. Sitting atop the train definitely made the Devil's Nose a highlight of the trip. 

Our next stop: Guayaquil. With only one day to spend here I walked the Malecon 2000, a 2.5 km (1.5 mile) boardwalk along the Guayas River. Many shops, restaurants and museums line the boardwalk. 

After dinner a few of us ventured to Barrio de las Penas. A series of 444 steps winds your way through several busy streets of houses, restaurants, bars, etc. Atop the hill at the 444th step there is a plaza with a tower and a small church. 

Ecuador: Part 1: Tena, Amazon Jungle, Baños

Our first night began in Quito with a brief meeting with our guide Giovanny. Some of us went out to dinner where within twenty minutes the power went out, again. We ate over candle light and headlights of a car. Power did not return until early the next morning. What a way to begin a trip!

The following morning we arrived by bus to Tena. After a few hours of roaming the streets we gathered for dinner at Chuquitos. After a drink and the rain clearing we gathered at a small stadium for the cultural celebration Napo Raymi. Numerous indigenous dances were performed by children and adults.

The next morning four of us; Bill, Troy, Tara and myself decided to delay our jungle excursion for a few hours to raft the Rio Jatunyacu. The river is a class 3, not as intense as I am used to but still entertaining. Since the water was a bit calmer we were able to play around a bit more. Our two safety guides let us take turns in the ducky to make it more challenging and give a new perspective to the river. After a fun filled day spent in the water we met up with the rest of the group and settled into our jungle lodges.

Before we set off for our hike Giovanny made sure all of us had our faces painted with natural pigment. Myself and four other travelers opted to hike the more challenging four hour route (roundtrip). The climb was challenging. Our local guide used his machete to cut a narrow pathway through the jungle. Hot and exhausted, finally arriving at our destination, a swim along a waterfall was welcome relief.


During our descent it began to pour. Samuel cut down large leaves to use as a natural umbrella. A large bowl of soup awaited us upon our return. Later that afternoon we were shown how they make local drinks, string from surrounding trees and crafts- all natural and organic. We also took turns with a blow dart, a bunch of bananas being our target.


At night we were treated to a performance of traditional Quichua dance and song. After the children and adults performed all of us were invited to dance as well. I showed numerous photos of my travels to the family. Everyone, kids and parents alike were enthralled with my camera. A few kids had taken photos of a soccer game we played earlier that day and were really excited to see images of themselves.
Sadly, the next morning we had to leave for Baños. I absolutley loved the community visit, could have stayed longer. If I ever make a return visit to Ecuador this would be a priority.

A ride on the back of a truck and a bus ride brought us to the small town of Baños. Here we saw three waterfalls. For one fall we had to take a cable car across a wide ravine to gain a closer view. Another fall included a short hike and crossing a swing bridge. Upon our return to Baños I toured the town for a couple of hours before my spa appointment. For $35 I spent an hour trapped in a steam box and received an hour facial and body massage. Absolute heaven! A great reward to myself for all the hiking Ive done.


The relaxation didn´t last too long. The next morning JiaMin, Daniela and I went on another hike. About 30 minutes into our journey we had a spectacular view of the town. We continued our trek in hopes of a glimpse of Tunguraha Volcano. Somehow we must have taken a wrong turn, or maybe it was just the cloud cover- we did not see the volcano. Still a great morning exercise and an opportunity for some great photos.

Galapagos: Part 2: I´ve evolved. Have you?

North Seymour- Day 5. During our walk we saw a few frigate birds displaying their red gular pouch. Unfortunatley I wasn´t able to get close enough to photograph them well enough. But their mating ritual is something to discuss. The males expand the red gular pouch (takes about 20 minutes), and perch utop a bush with wings fully extending and flapping furiuosly hoping to intice females. Blue footed boobies did

 appear again as well as sea

 lions, marine and land iguanas.

Fifteen passengers left this day so I was left alone on the yacht (with the crew) to wait for the next arrivals. I became La Reina del Pelikano (the queen of the Pelican). But fear not! There were sharks circling the boat that provided some entertainment. They made their appearance shortly after the guide told me I could go swimming if I wanted to. No thanks after seeing 3 sharks! I also enjoyed the peace and quiet, caught up on journal entires etc. At about noon 13 new passengers arrived.

After the new travelers settled in we went to Bachas Beach for a brief walk and snorkeling. On this beach there were remains of old posts from a pier the US used during construction of the Panama Canal. Some people joked that it could possibly be a future archeology dig for me.

The next morning we woke up to the view of Sombrero Chino near the island of Santiago. Our walk offered different view points of volcanic scenery. Once again sea lions, iguanas, lava lizards and crabs blanketed the shore and landscape.

After a mid morning snorkel we sailed to Bartolome for more volcanic scenery. We first began our visit with another snorkel expedition. This time we came across a reef shark and a large manta ray. A penguin quickly swam away from the group and ofcourse a few sea lions swam among us.

To prevent further destruction from the large amount of human traffic a wodden pathway was built on the island. I guess someone took the liberty of counting the steps to the top of the mopuntain; 350. I had been enjoying the variety of scenery, wildlife of the islands but nothing prepared me for the next landscape I was about to see.

I don´t think my photograph does justice to the magnificence of this view. Absoulutely breathtaking. I was told it is the most photographed/popular view the Galapagos has to offer. Any magazine, brochure, doucmentary is sure to include this very spot.

I´m not sure what could possibly top the view but seeing the Galapagos penguins was my favorite second part to day 6. They are the second smallest penguins found in the world and are also becoming rare. Increasing heat, hurricanes and El Niño have all desimated the population, leaving only 800 pairs left.

At James Bay we walked along a black volcanic beach. Here we saw numerous finches, doves and mockingbirds. There was a large marine iguana colony and the males were dutifully protecting their respective ¨harems¨. Some scurring around and spitting occured but none of the males iguanas got into a dual. A natural swimming pool had sea lions and a sea turtle playing around. A few dolphins were also seen swimming off in the distance.

Sailing on to Rabida Island. This is another volcanic beach with

a deep/rich red sand. A few shorts steps from the beach is a lagoon. Flamingos weren´t around this day but a few sea lions were cooling off in the water.

I opted out of the snorkel trip to spend more time on the beach admiring 

the view and searching for more wildlife. Birds fluttered about and lizards ran around. Several young sea lions were milking from thier mothers, watching the older ones play and some were resting. The final night sail was back to Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz.

Early the next morning a tour of the Darwin Research Center was the final stop. Since 1964 this facility has been assisting The Galapagos National Park in the preservation of this environment. This also serves as the training center for all naturalist guides. Corrals house a few giant tortoises as well as young tortoises. At the age of 3 or so the young tortoises shell has hardened enough to be sent into the wild where, hopefully, they will spend the next 150 plus years.

The most famous of the Giant Galapagos Tortoises is Lonesome George. Years ago he was the only tortoises found on his home island. He shares his corral with two females who are the closest relation of his species. Many unsuccessful attempts have been made to produce offspring. Within the next few months the scientists will know whether the eggs that have been incubating will actually produce live young tortoises.

Any words I could find to describe this trip wouldn´t give it it´s proper justice. I am absolutely thrilled I took on this adventure. I don´t think you need to have studied Anthropology or even agree with the theory of evolution to appreciate The Galapagos. Just think:

Galapagos: A dream trip. Conquered!

On January 7th I arrived in Santa Cruz, one of the 13 main islands of the Galapagos. We quickly boarded our 72 foot yacht, the Pelikano. The 16 passengers consisted of travelers from Canada, England, Italy, Germany, Switzerland, Australia and Ireland. Our first stop was a visit to the highlands to view the infamous giant tortoises in their natural environment. Mostly males live in the highlands and it is during the mating season that the females leave the lowlands to procreate.

Scattered about the lush green landscape they are something to see upclose! I was surprised by how easily they moved around. Some estimated ages ranged from 80- 120 plus years! It isn´t unheard of for some of the giant tortoises to live to 200 years. During the walk we also entered a lava tunnel. An owl was perched on a ledge ready to greet us. There were also numerous birds- finches, flying about.

We returned to the yacht for some sailing, a daily briefing, an introduction of the passengers to the crew and a welcome toast- a delicious piña coloda! The food served was always delicious. You couldn´t possibly go hungry with the large breakfasts, lunches and dinners with tasty desserts.


Day 2 was spent on Floreana Island. We landed on Cormorant Point, where numerouse sea lions were resting on the brown beach.There is a great mystery to this island. A baroness and her two lovers, a German doctor and his mistress, and a German couple with their young son all came to settle on this island. Disappearances and mysterious deaths occured, no one is quite sure what happened.


After a snorkel trip at Champion Rock, where we saw a variety of colorful fish, sting rays and more sea lions we took a trip to Post Office Bay, also on Floreana. A barrel was placed here in the late 18th- century by English whaling vessels to be used as a post office. Passing ships would stop to leave mail for loved ones, collecting at the same time any mail destined for for ports on their itineraries. Today the box is used mainly by tourists, who may drop off and pick up unstamped letters to be carried to other destintaions. There was one pre stamped envelope to someone in New Hampshire. I intend to mail it when I return to the states and add a little note.


On day 3 we had a dry landing at Suarez Point on Española Island. Wildlife here consists of red marine iquanas, sea lions, waved albatross, blue footed booby, masked bobby, doves and finches. We spent a good few hours walking around taking in the scenery and certainly a large quantity of photos. I often lagged behind the group to "snap away". Late in the morning we sailed to Gardner Bay, ate lunch, snorkeled off the dinghy and then had a beach landing.




We saw more sealions (they were found pretty much everywhere). Mockingbirds would often follow you around, showing no fear of people and they seemed to especially enjoy my water bottle.



Our night sail brought us to Santa Fe, day 4. This island is populated with the Prickly Pear Cactus. I highly enjoyed the contrast of the green cacti against the blue ocean along with the red and gray brush that is present on the island. Land Iguanas are also very popular to view. Lying around everywhere you definitely had to make sure you were looking at the ground, they would move quickly and upon taking one step back there would often be another one nearby.




After another delicous dinner we set to North Seymour. Come back to read about days 5-8 of my tour of The Galapagos!