Peru: Part 6: The Jungle and Lima (last day in Peru)

From Cusco we flew to Puerto Maldonado. After a quick stop we boarded a canoe to begin our journey upstream to the jungle lodge. We arrived at the lodge at 6:30pm, already dark but we had our flashlights ready. The lodge exceeded expectations. The place is well maintained- very clean. Although the showers only have cold water there are flush toilets and the sleeping quarters are built up off of the ground (no jungle critters greeting you in the morning). Soon after our arrival a large, excellent buffet was ready. With such a long day of travel the night ended early and I retired to my bed, complete with mosquito netting.

Our activities were delayed in the morning due to a down pour (imagine that, rain in the rainforest). But soon enough the weather cleared and we paid a visit to a farm across the river. We tried a few different fruits grown on the land, some were very sour. At the farm we were able to see a few monkeys hanging and swinging from the trees. Crops are usually lower in numbers due to the monkeys and other animals taking their share.

Our jungle excursion was slick and muddy. Not much wildlife was seen, just a small snake, cutter ants and some sort of weasel. We heard the sound of wild pigs, followed the noise for a little while but never saw them. Early the next morning we bid farewell to the jungle and made our return trip to Puerto Maldonado and then back to Lima.

 

I spent my last day in Peru visiting the site of Pachacamac and the Museum of Gold. Pachacamac is an expansive site but lies in ruins. Unfortunately some of the site has seen development, and not legally. A family builds a home, others follow suit, a whole town springs up quickly and the government doesn't do much about it because of the cost and the strength of the new town. There are a few things about Peru I don't understand, this and the lack of taxes are two things. 

The museum of gold has a large collection of artifacts from numerous cultures of Peru. A few skulls I saw I thought were victims of trepanation but instead these skulls were worn around the waist of a warrior to show his prowess. 

Before I left for the airport I had my last meal in Peru at Bembo's- the Peruvian McDonald's. The food at Bembo's is better.

My adventures in Peru were fantastic! Traveling with great people and a fun, friendly guide always helps. 

Next up: Mexico and Central America!

Peru: Part 5: Cusco

We spent two days before the Inca Trail and one day after touring the city of  Cusco. During a tour of the city we walked around two plazas, and spent some time at a small museum exhibiting the works of Hilario Mendivil. A famous landmark of the city is the twelve angle stone of an ancient Inca temple. The Peurvian beer, Cusquena, has this stone engraved on the bottles. 

We also toured six archeological sites near Cusco; Pisac, Ollantaytambo, Tambomach'ay, Pukapukara, Q'Engo and Saqsayhuaman. All sites varied in size and the degree in which they remain intact.  

Saqsayhuaman provided a great deal of entertainment due to its name. When pronounced Saqsayhuaman sounds a lot like Sexy Woman. Many photos were taken of sexy poses. Here's my attempt: 

We stopped by a coca shop to try various products made from the plant; tea, brownies, cookies and chocolates. Everything was delicious and I bought a few treats for myself. Cynthia gave us a brief history on the plant and informed us, despite the rumors and the uninformed, the plant in its natural form is not a drug. The only thing I became addicted to during my tour of Peru was the country itself. 

I also stopped by a large handicraft market. I didn't buy much, just two t-shirts. A lot of the products being sold I had seen throughout my travels. I toured Santo Domingo Church, built by the Spanish and on top of an Inca Temple. A small museum located near the church housed a minimal amount of artifacts but did display skulls containing trepination marks and deformities from skull binding. Before I returned to the hotel to met up for dinner I stopped by the Popular Art Museum. Another small museum that contained a few pieces from Mendivil and other art works made from such things as silverware and guinea pig bones. 

Peru: Part 4: The Inca Trail

Shortly after arriving to the first check point of the trail in Ollantaytambo I heard "AnnMarie, AnnMarie". Turns out Jia Min, from the Ecuador trip, was making the trek as well. What a small world it is!

After being cleared we crossed a swing bridge and began our hike. The trail began easy enough- flat terrain, but eventually there were some steep ascents and long gradual climbs. I was surprised by how many homes, small villages are located along the trail. I had expected to leave civilization behind as soon as the trail began. Villagers were selling snacks and drinks during this portion of the trail but I had packed enough food in my day pack to keep me well fed.

I arrived at our first campsite around 6pm. Everything was set up; the tents, dining area, etc. The porters clapped as each one of us entered the campsite, they did this throughout the trip- great encouragement. During the trail these porters carried everything for us and would RUN past us. They hike the trail about 4-5 times a month and are in great shape. Our trail guide told us some people have ran the trail in less than three hours, not bad for a 28 mile course with steep climbs.

Day two of the trail was the longest and hardest day. Steep ascents and descents occurred with greater frequency. I welcomed the arrival of DeadWoman's Pass, the highest point of the trail at 4200m(13779 ft). We took a long break as I shared some Pringles with the group. The chips then acted as motivation for the rest of the day. Did I stumble upon a new ad campaign for the makers of Pringles?

We toured two sites during the days trek, Runkuracay and Sayacmarca. After touring the second site it was only another half hour walk (flat terrain) to our next campsite- Chaquicocha. After another delicious dinner (the food served was first rate quality), much needed rest was in order.

Our third day was a shorter and easier hike but the trail still had its moments. In the morning we toured the site of Phuyupatamarca - "town of the clouds".  By 1pm we arrived at our campsite- Winay Wayna. A restaurant and shower facilities were located at this camping area. A shower, even a lukewarm one was great relief after three days of treking. It felt great to be clean! After some free time we toured the site of Winay Wayna- "forever young". After dinner there was a short ceremony to celebrate our journey and give thanks to the porters. The porters sang a song in their native language- Quechua. Since most of the travel group is Australian, they sang Waltzing Matilda. I got a pass from singing because I said our thanks in Spanish. The night ended early due to our wake up call at 3:45am the next morning.

Day 4: MACHU PICCHU!

Here it is. Well worth the strenuous 3+ days of hiking and quite the wonder indeed.

We toured the site for a few hours. I was in awe the whole time. WOW!- that's my comment on Machu Picchu and the experience. If you have the desire and the drive- hike the trail- you won't be disappointed.

Peru: Part 3: Lake Titicaca; Floating Island Visit, Homestay at Llachon Island and Taquille Island

At the port of Puno we bought some gifts for our next homestay visit. We set sail on Lake Titicaca to first visit the floating reed island of Titino. A resident showed us how the island is formed and how at any moment the island could be cut up if people were no longer getting along. A volleyball game and a ride around the island on their reed boat were also part of the visit.

We then sailed on to Llachon Island. My "dad" Joaquin quickly introduced me to my "family". He and his wife have four children; ages 11, 9, 5 and 3. I played games with the kids until I noticed lunch was being prepared. I offered to help and was given the duty of washing the dishes. I had another opportunity to practice Spanish, knowing some of the language definitely has come in handy, especially with these homestays.

During our visit we also had the opportuity to pick potatoes for dinner, play volleyball and soccer with the community. For our dinner all of us were given the local attire to wear. 

The next morning after a hearty breakfast I gave my gifts to the family; some needed food items and gifts for the kids. Roy, the 5 year old walked with us down to the pier to say goodbye. I had a wonderful, fun time with the kids and enjoyed this visit immensely.

Our next destination was Taquille Island. We walked around the island for 45 minutes taking a short rest with a view of Soto Island- the deepest section of the lake. During our excursion countless children asked us to buy their bracelets. These kids should be in school but parents have them earn money instead of learning, so we were told not to buy anything- giving them money does nothing for the situation. After a delicious lunch we returned to our boat and set sail for Puno.

Peru: Part 2: Arequipa, Chivay/Colca Canyon, Sibayo Homestay

The overnight bus arrived in Arequipa at 7:30am.  The group walked around the Plaza de Armas, (a popular name given to plazas) toured Santo Domingo Church and the Cathedral. A long tour of the Monasterio Santa Catalina was very informative. The convent was formed by a wealthy, childless widow, Maria de Guzman. Women had two options at that time: become a wife or become a nun. Ladies, which would you choose?

The Monastery was massive. Each nun had their own spacious bedroom and some even had a private bathroom. Nuns were also allowed servants, some of the servants later joined the convent as well.

At the Museo Santuario Andinos the famous mummy Juanita is displayed. A video was shown on what archeologists, historians and other social scientists believe what her last few days must have been like. 500 years ago at the age of 12, Juanita was sacrificed to the gods. Although during this time she was on loan so her "understudy" Sarita was on display. Sarita met a similar demise. To be sacrificed was an honor for the family and the daughter or son that would be sacrificed. Since birth the child knew of its fate so the event was not one of surprise or fear but one of distinction and respect.

Along the drive to Chivay a town in the Colca Canyon valley, many llamas and alpacas were seen. We stopped at Patapampa, the highest elevation on our tour at 4800 meters (15748 feet).

An abundant amount of beautiful, wondrous views of terrain were

observed. Several photos were taken, some quite humorous. 

This shot of the group is among my favorites.

After a long, scenic drive we arrived to Chivay. Soon after dropping our bags at the hotel we were off to the hot springs. This establishment allowed beverages in the springs and we all enjoyed our choice of beer, pisco sour or colca sour. 

Later in the evening during our dinner two dancers performed in traditional garments. The dancers did pick people from their tables to perform with them. Thankfully I was sitting too far away. The hotel was chilly so the staff provided each of us with a hot water bottle to keep by our feet. Even though several thick blankets were also provided I still wore my thermals.

The next morning we drove to the community of Sibayo for our homestay. Each couple/single person was given their own "mom". My "Mom's" name is Karina, 20 years old and mom to a 6 month old son. She knows a little bit of English but we mostly spoke in Spanish. Great practice for me! I also met her mother and father. She is married but I did not have the opportunity to meet her husband. 

All of us were given local garments to wear to the festival we were going to participate in. The festival consisted of dancing around a tree. A man and a woman would take turns using a machete to cut the tree before passing on the machete to another man and woman. The festival ends when the tree falls down. The party usually lasts about three days and the people responsible for the final cut have to plant a tree for a future festival. Drinking also is involved. I did not inquire about the amount of accidents due to the combination of machete and alcohol use.

For dinner we were joined by one of her friends- another "mom" and a fellow traveler. Since he didn't know any Spanish I acted as a translator. I never thought I would be put in that role but I met the challenge. I was surprised by how much Spanish I actually remembered but also how much I need to relearn. 

The next morning the entire group and our "moms" went for a walk to view another mummy. Juanito was a young boy that was sacrificed in similar fashion to Juanita. During our walk I spoke with a few other moms and we had a good time and laugh while singing the alphabet in Spanish and English.

I had a wonderful time with my "mom".  We were all a bit sad to leave the people who so generously welcomed us into their homes and lives.

Peru: Part 1: Lima, Pisco and Nazca

Early in the morning of February 23rd I arrived in Lima, Peru. Due to a cold I spent the entire morning and afternoon in bed trying to get better fast. I met my fellow travelers that evening, went out to dinner with the group and quickly fell back to sleep upon returning to the hotel.

Up early the next morning for a tour of downtown Lima. Surrounding the Plaza de Armas, we toured the San Francisco Monastery. The monastery is famous for its catacombs. I'm still unsure how I feel about what I saw. All bodies that were excavated were then organized by body parts into different compartments. There was a giant well-like structure that contained hundreds of well arranged skulls! I found all of this to be a little immoral. 

In Pisco I opted out of the Ballestas Island tour and sand boarding. The activities sounded like a great deal of fun but I still felt a bit under the weather. Instead, I relaxed in a pool with a view of the sand dunes and watched a few brave folks glide down. I also took a walk around Huacachina Oasis. Legend is that a woman was separated from her lover and due to a broken heart her tears produced the body of water. We also toured a winery where they produce Pisco. I have to say I do not like Pisco and the Peruvian drink: Pisco Sour. 

The next morning I boarded a Cessna Skyhawk to view the Nazca Lines from above. Some of the markings included a monkey, hummingbird, astronaut, tree and spider. Numerous tire tracks and other marks were observed over the landscape. The sharp turns made by the plane left me feeling a little dizzy and nauseous but I was thrilled to have observed these lines from a closer/wider viewpoint. This was an attraction of Peru I had been anticipating for a long time and it did not disappoint!

We also stopped by a local pottery shop where an older man showed us how he makes replicas of the ancient pottery found. He uses the same methods and materials of all those years ago and produces beautiful pieces of art. Another stop at a miner's exhibit showed the numerous rocks of the region and an abbreviated display of how gold is extracted. The miner was incredibly entertaining. He used sound effects during his presentation and performed a short song at the end.

Nearby the Nazca Lines is the pre Inca Chauchilla Cemetery. Some of the graves/tombs date to 1000AD. The majority of graves are of young and older adults although a few small mummified children could also be observed. The head of hair on some of the remains was astounding. It easily looked like the hair would have been the length of their body and then some.

(New goal for me!!- HA- I don't think so!)

Only simple roofs cover each grave area. Glass cases and overnight security are not present. To no surprise, looting is very popular in this area. Pieces of fabric and pottery scattered around leave behind traces of the vandalism. 

***** I wasn't able to write any blog posts due to computer difficulties I faced while in Peru. I am now back in Albany but will be heading to Mexico on the 27th of March. But, there are still some more adventures of Peru to be written!