Ecuador: Part 4: Quito- Old and New Town, Papallacta Thermal Springs

My first few days in Quito I spent walking around the New City and several of its parks. During my last few days I walked the historic section known as Old Town. In 1978 UNESCO declared Quito a world heritage site.  

I toured the Basilica del Voto Nacional. Here you could walk up a spiral metal staircase and then a series of thin metal ladders to get a grand view of the city. I couldn't veer to far over the edge without having my knees shake a little. Some brave folks did step outside of the clock tower to get an unobtrusive view of the city. 

I visited many other churches; San Augustin, La Merced, Santo Domingo, La Compania. Plaza Independencia was populated with street performers one day and a large band the next. Government buildings, a church and a hotel charging $500 per night surround the plaza. Many children were selling jello or shining shoes in this area.

After being warned "peligroso, peligroso" (dangerous) I  took a taxi to the top of El Panecillo to see the statue of the Virgin of Quito up close. This statue presides over Old Town and is located in a really rough neighborhood. Many people have been mugged or worse on their attempt at walking up. The views of the city are worth the small taxi fee.

A two hour bus ride from Quito brought us to Papallacta Springs. This place has seven pools of thermal springs and I tried them all. Early afternoon the sky was overcast but by mid afternoon the clouds parted, the sun shined and a beautiful view of the mountains appeared. I spent about four hours swimming and relaxing. I even managed to take a nap in one of the pools, must have felt a little too relaxed! 

Comparing the Galapagos Islands to the rest of the country wouldn't be fair. I loved all of Ecuador. Anyone interested in a trip to either the islands or the mainland, I've got plenty of stories and advice!  

Next up: Peru!

Ecuador: Part 3: Puerto Lopez, Quito, Otavalo

Within minutes of arriving at the coastal town of Puerto Lopez I found it hard to imagine that just days earlier I was climbing a snow covered mountain. Although, I did welcome 

the change of high temperatures and lots of sun. During our stay we went to Agua Blanca, an archeology site built by the Mantena. A small museum displayed some of the artifacts found; numerous tools, ceremonial seats, and human remains.  Surprisingly excavation has not been conducted for 20 years! 

Another beach town, the hippie village of Montanita was another venture. I could easily see why this is "the" place to be at night. An abundant amount of bars and restaurants lined the streets. A lively but also laid back atmosphere complete with many dreadheaded people and a "funny smell" to the air.  

During our brief stay in Quito a few of us decided to visit La Mitad del Mundo. We were quickly redirected to the Solar Museum where we were given a talk about the real center of the Earth. An archeology site, Catequilla rests atop a mountain and is perfectly in line with the correct equator, GPS coordinates confirm this. After a brief history of the culture we were told of a small disc found alongside a road that marks the correct location of the equator. Finding the disc proved to be a real adventure. Avoiding oncoming traffic was a test of reflexes and provided a great deal of entertainment. 

I'm sure the drivers thought we were all completely nuts- what an odd bunch of gringos- might have been one of their more polite thoughts.

After the real equator we went to visit the confirmed fake equator and all its tourist glory.  

One of our stops near Otavalo was Crater Lake in Cotacachi Park.  The view was spectacular, happy to have decided to hike around for a few hours than take a short boat ride around the lake. (I'm always up for a challenge!)

We also made a stop at a nearby leather town. The clothing, bags and other articles were all well made and beautiful but I didn't find anything I absolutely needed to have. (Sorry. I'm not turning into a leather clothed biker chick.)

The big draw to Otavalo is the market. I got a glimpse of what would be sold on a Friday but nothing could compare to the quantity of vendors on Saturday. Every street was filled with people selling art, jewelry, clothing, fabrics, fruits, veggies, grains, meats, etc. I only bought a t-shirt (at a very good bargain) and enjoyed walking around listening to others bargaining and to soak in the variety of colors. The market would be an artist's dream.

Ecuador: Part 2: Santa Anita, Riobamba, Guayaquil

Our next stop was a visit to the community of Santa Anita (population 1500). During our walk we saw many donkeys, sheep, cows and pigs on the dirt roads. A few kids came up to me asking to view my camera. Some asked for their picture to be taken and I had a few brief conversations with some of them. A family was tending their fields, women in skirts and a few with their kids tied to thier backs! Some people were brave enough to try cuy (guinea pig) for dinner. We stopped by a shack so two "pets" could be chosen for the night's meal. I thought they were too cute to eat and judging by the reviews of the crew I wasn't missing much- I don't think anyone enjoyed the taste. 

Early the next morning we gathered together for our trek to Chimborazo, the highest (6310m, 20702 feet) snow capped mountain in Ecuador. Shortly within beginning the trail several grave markers were placed to pay respects to those who lost their lives during the ascent. 

Our first hike was to 5000 meters (16404 feet), only a 200 meter difference from where we began but it was a strenuous climb. All of us were relieved when we arrived at the Edward Whymper refuge, I grabbed a hot chocolate and after a few minutes rest decided to continue a bit further/higher. My breathing was fine, I didn't feellightheaded/nauseous, etc- no sign of altitude sickness. Just my legs ached but since I thought this might be my only visit I decided to push myself a bit more.   

A bit of a time crunch dictated how far we could continue on. Our guide told Peter and I we had reached 5400m (17716 feet). Neither of us felt we could have possibly climbed another 400 meters in that short time but either way whether 5200m or 5400m, it is still the highest elevation I have been at. I think I'm ready for Everest! Ha Ha.

We spent two days in Riobamba. Early one morning we boarded a train (felt more like an old school bus on tracks). Apparently two tourists were killed from riding on top of the train (decapatation from electric wires). So we were told that rides atop the train weren't allowed anymore. However, shortly after our final stop at Alausi the train came to a halt. $1 bought you a cushion and admission to the top. 

A few minutes later we came to another stop- rockfall! Many of us hoped this wouldn't mean the end of the ride. Crew and fellow passengers jumped out and off the train to help move the large rocks and boulders. You would think an archeologist would go and help with the digging, but no. I enjoyed taking photos of the scenery and of my fellow travel buddies helping us get out of this jam. Plus, would I really want to put all the men to shame by my might?! The ride continued and what an experience it was. Sitting atop the train definitely made the Devil's Nose a highlight of the trip. 

Our next stop: Guayaquil. With only one day to spend here I walked the Malecon 2000, a 2.5 km (1.5 mile) boardwalk along the Guayas River. Many shops, restaurants and museums line the boardwalk. 

After dinner a few of us ventured to Barrio de las Penas. A series of 444 steps winds your way through several busy streets of houses, restaurants, bars, etc. Atop the hill at the 444th step there is a plaza with a tower and a small church. 

Ecuador: Part 1: Tena, Amazon Jungle, Baños

Our first night began in Quito with a brief meeting with our guide Giovanny. Some of us went out to dinner where within twenty minutes the power went out, again. We ate over candle light and headlights of a car. Power did not return until early the next morning. What a way to begin a trip!

The following morning we arrived by bus to Tena. After a few hours of roaming the streets we gathered for dinner at Chuquitos. After a drink and the rain clearing we gathered at a small stadium for the cultural celebration Napo Raymi. Numerous indigenous dances were performed by children and adults.

The next morning four of us; Bill, Troy, Tara and myself decided to delay our jungle excursion for a few hours to raft the Rio Jatunyacu. The river is a class 3, not as intense as I am used to but still entertaining. Since the water was a bit calmer we were able to play around a bit more. Our two safety guides let us take turns in the ducky to make it more challenging and give a new perspective to the river. After a fun filled day spent in the water we met up with the rest of the group and settled into our jungle lodges.

Before we set off for our hike Giovanny made sure all of us had our faces painted with natural pigment. Myself and four other travelers opted to hike the more challenging four hour route (roundtrip). The climb was challenging. Our local guide used his machete to cut a narrow pathway through the jungle. Hot and exhausted, finally arriving at our destination, a swim along a waterfall was welcome relief.


During our descent it began to pour. Samuel cut down large leaves to use as a natural umbrella. A large bowl of soup awaited us upon our return. Later that afternoon we were shown how they make local drinks, string from surrounding trees and crafts- all natural and organic. We also took turns with a blow dart, a bunch of bananas being our target.


At night we were treated to a performance of traditional Quichua dance and song. After the children and adults performed all of us were invited to dance as well. I showed numerous photos of my travels to the family. Everyone, kids and parents alike were enthralled with my camera. A few kids had taken photos of a soccer game we played earlier that day and were really excited to see images of themselves.
Sadly, the next morning we had to leave for Baños. I absolutley loved the community visit, could have stayed longer. If I ever make a return visit to Ecuador this would be a priority.

A ride on the back of a truck and a bus ride brought us to the small town of Baños. Here we saw three waterfalls. For one fall we had to take a cable car across a wide ravine to gain a closer view. Another fall included a short hike and crossing a swing bridge. Upon our return to Baños I toured the town for a couple of hours before my spa appointment. For $35 I spent an hour trapped in a steam box and received an hour facial and body massage. Absolute heaven! A great reward to myself for all the hiking Ive done.


The relaxation didn´t last too long. The next morning JiaMin, Daniela and I went on another hike. About 30 minutes into our journey we had a spectacular view of the town. We continued our trek in hopes of a glimpse of Tunguraha Volcano. Somehow we must have taken a wrong turn, or maybe it was just the cloud cover- we did not see the volcano. Still a great morning exercise and an opportunity for some great photos.