Galapagos: Part 2: I´ve evolved. Have you?

North Seymour- Day 5. During our walk we saw a few frigate birds displaying their red gular pouch. Unfortunatley I wasn´t able to get close enough to photograph them well enough. But their mating ritual is something to discuss. The males expand the red gular pouch (takes about 20 minutes), and perch utop a bush with wings fully extending and flapping furiuosly hoping to intice females. Blue footed boobies did

 appear again as well as sea

 lions, marine and land iguanas.

Fifteen passengers left this day so I was left alone on the yacht (with the crew) to wait for the next arrivals. I became La Reina del Pelikano (the queen of the Pelican). But fear not! There were sharks circling the boat that provided some entertainment. They made their appearance shortly after the guide told me I could go swimming if I wanted to. No thanks after seeing 3 sharks! I also enjoyed the peace and quiet, caught up on journal entires etc. At about noon 13 new passengers arrived.

After the new travelers settled in we went to Bachas Beach for a brief walk and snorkeling. On this beach there were remains of old posts from a pier the US used during construction of the Panama Canal. Some people joked that it could possibly be a future archeology dig for me.

The next morning we woke up to the view of Sombrero Chino near the island of Santiago. Our walk offered different view points of volcanic scenery. Once again sea lions, iguanas, lava lizards and crabs blanketed the shore and landscape.

After a mid morning snorkel we sailed to Bartolome for more volcanic scenery. We first began our visit with another snorkel expedition. This time we came across a reef shark and a large manta ray. A penguin quickly swam away from the group and ofcourse a few sea lions swam among us.

To prevent further destruction from the large amount of human traffic a wodden pathway was built on the island. I guess someone took the liberty of counting the steps to the top of the mopuntain; 350. I had been enjoying the variety of scenery, wildlife of the islands but nothing prepared me for the next landscape I was about to see.

I don´t think my photograph does justice to the magnificence of this view. Absoulutely breathtaking. I was told it is the most photographed/popular view the Galapagos has to offer. Any magazine, brochure, doucmentary is sure to include this very spot.

I´m not sure what could possibly top the view but seeing the Galapagos penguins was my favorite second part to day 6. They are the second smallest penguins found in the world and are also becoming rare. Increasing heat, hurricanes and El Niño have all desimated the population, leaving only 800 pairs left.

At James Bay we walked along a black volcanic beach. Here we saw numerous finches, doves and mockingbirds. There was a large marine iguana colony and the males were dutifully protecting their respective ¨harems¨. Some scurring around and spitting occured but none of the males iguanas got into a dual. A natural swimming pool had sea lions and a sea turtle playing around. A few dolphins were also seen swimming off in the distance.

Sailing on to Rabida Island. This is another volcanic beach with

a deep/rich red sand. A few shorts steps from the beach is a lagoon. Flamingos weren´t around this day but a few sea lions were cooling off in the water.

I opted out of the snorkel trip to spend more time on the beach admiring 

the view and searching for more wildlife. Birds fluttered about and lizards ran around. Several young sea lions were milking from thier mothers, watching the older ones play and some were resting. The final night sail was back to Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz.

Early the next morning a tour of the Darwin Research Center was the final stop. Since 1964 this facility has been assisting The Galapagos National Park in the preservation of this environment. This also serves as the training center for all naturalist guides. Corrals house a few giant tortoises as well as young tortoises. At the age of 3 or so the young tortoises shell has hardened enough to be sent into the wild where, hopefully, they will spend the next 150 plus years.

The most famous of the Giant Galapagos Tortoises is Lonesome George. Years ago he was the only tortoises found on his home island. He shares his corral with two females who are the closest relation of his species. Many unsuccessful attempts have been made to produce offspring. Within the next few months the scientists will know whether the eggs that have been incubating will actually produce live young tortoises.

Any words I could find to describe this trip wouldn´t give it it´s proper justice. I am absolutely thrilled I took on this adventure. I don´t think you need to have studied Anthropology or even agree with the theory of evolution to appreciate The Galapagos. Just think:

Galapagos: A dream trip. Conquered!

On January 7th I arrived in Santa Cruz, one of the 13 main islands of the Galapagos. We quickly boarded our 72 foot yacht, the Pelikano. The 16 passengers consisted of travelers from Canada, England, Italy, Germany, Switzerland, Australia and Ireland. Our first stop was a visit to the highlands to view the infamous giant tortoises in their natural environment. Mostly males live in the highlands and it is during the mating season that the females leave the lowlands to procreate.

Scattered about the lush green landscape they are something to see upclose! I was surprised by how easily they moved around. Some estimated ages ranged from 80- 120 plus years! It isn´t unheard of for some of the giant tortoises to live to 200 years. During the walk we also entered a lava tunnel. An owl was perched on a ledge ready to greet us. There were also numerous birds- finches, flying about.

We returned to the yacht for some sailing, a daily briefing, an introduction of the passengers to the crew and a welcome toast- a delicious piña coloda! The food served was always delicious. You couldn´t possibly go hungry with the large breakfasts, lunches and dinners with tasty desserts.


Day 2 was spent on Floreana Island. We landed on Cormorant Point, where numerouse sea lions were resting on the brown beach.There is a great mystery to this island. A baroness and her two lovers, a German doctor and his mistress, and a German couple with their young son all came to settle on this island. Disappearances and mysterious deaths occured, no one is quite sure what happened.


After a snorkel trip at Champion Rock, where we saw a variety of colorful fish, sting rays and more sea lions we took a trip to Post Office Bay, also on Floreana. A barrel was placed here in the late 18th- century by English whaling vessels to be used as a post office. Passing ships would stop to leave mail for loved ones, collecting at the same time any mail destined for for ports on their itineraries. Today the box is used mainly by tourists, who may drop off and pick up unstamped letters to be carried to other destintaions. There was one pre stamped envelope to someone in New Hampshire. I intend to mail it when I return to the states and add a little note.


On day 3 we had a dry landing at Suarez Point on Española Island. Wildlife here consists of red marine iquanas, sea lions, waved albatross, blue footed booby, masked bobby, doves and finches. We spent a good few hours walking around taking in the scenery and certainly a large quantity of photos. I often lagged behind the group to "snap away". Late in the morning we sailed to Gardner Bay, ate lunch, snorkeled off the dinghy and then had a beach landing.




We saw more sealions (they were found pretty much everywhere). Mockingbirds would often follow you around, showing no fear of people and they seemed to especially enjoy my water bottle.



Our night sail brought us to Santa Fe, day 4. This island is populated with the Prickly Pear Cactus. I highly enjoyed the contrast of the green cacti against the blue ocean along with the red and gray brush that is present on the island. Land Iguanas are also very popular to view. Lying around everywhere you definitely had to make sure you were looking at the ground, they would move quickly and upon taking one step back there would often be another one nearby.




After another delicous dinner we set to North Seymour. Come back to read about days 5-8 of my tour of The Galapagos!