19 March 2009

Peru: Part 2: Arequipa, Chivay/Colca Canyon, Sibayo Homestay

The overnight bus arrived in Arequipa at 7:30am.  The group walked around the Plaza de Armas, (a popular name given to plazas) toured Santo Domingo Church and the Cathedral. A long tour of the Monasterio Santa Catalina was very informative. The convent was formed by a wealthy, childless widow, Maria de Guzman. Women had two options at that time: become a wife or become a nun. Ladies, which would you choose?

The Monastery was massive. Each nun had their own spacious bedroom and some even had a private bathroom. Nuns were also allowed servants, some of the servants later joined the convent as well.

At the Museo Santuario Andinos the famous mummy Juanita is displayed. A video was shown on what archeologists, historians and other social scientists believe what her last few days must have been like. 500 years ago at the age of 12, Juanita was sacrificed to the gods. Although during this time she was on loan so her "understudy" Sarita was on display. Sarita met a similar demise. To be sacrificed was an honor for the family and the daughter or son that would be sacrificed. Since birth the child knew of its fate so the event was not one of surprise or fear but one of distinction and respect.


Along the drive to Chivay a town in the Colca Canyon valley, many llamas and alpacas were seen. We stopped at Patapampa, the highest elevation on our tour at 4800 meters (15748 feet).





An abundant amount of beautiful, wondrous views of terrain were
observed. Several photos were taken, some quite humorous. 
This shot of the group is among my favorites.



After a long, scenic drive we arrived to Chivay. Soon after dropping our bags at the hotel we were off to the hot springs. This establishment allowed beverages in the springs and we all enjoyed our choice of beer, pisco sour or colca sour. 


Later in the evening during our dinner two dancers performed in traditional garments. The dancers did pick people from their tables to perform with them. Thankfully I was sitting too far away. The hotel was chilly so the staff provided each of us with a hot water bottle to keep by our feet. Even though several thick blankets were also provided I still wore my thermals.

The next morning we drove to the community of Sibayo for our homestay. Each couple/single person was given their own "mom". My "Mom's" name is Karina, 20 years old and mom to a 6 month old son. She knows a little bit of English but we mostly spoke in Spanish. Great practice for me! I also met her mother and father. She is married but I did not have the opportunity to meet her husband. 

All of us were given local garments to wear to the festival we were going to participate in. The festival consisted of dancing around a tree. A man and a woman would take turns using a machete to cut the tree before passing on the machete to another man and woman. The festival ends when the tree falls down. The party usually lasts about three days and the people responsible for the final cut have to plant a tree for a future festival. Drinking also is involved. I did not inquire about the amount of accidents due to the combination of machete and alcohol use.

For dinner we were joined by one of her friends- another "mom" and a fellow traveler. Since he didn't know any Spanish I acted as a translator. I never thought I would be put in that role but I met the challenge. I was surprised by how much Spanish I actually remembered but also how much I need to relearn. 

The next morning the entire group and our "moms" went for a walk to view another mummy. Juanito was a young boy that was sacrificed in similar fashion to Juanita. During our walk I spoke with a few other moms and we had a good time and laugh while singing the alphabet in Spanish and English.

I had a wonderful time with my "mom".  We were all a bit sad to leave the people who so generously welcomed us into their homes and lives.

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